New forage seedings A unique opportunity this summer

  • By Stan Smith
  • July 13, 2011
  • 344
                        
With the weather allowing so few new forage seedings to be established in Ohio this spring, not only do many acres originally intended for forages remain unplanted, but several thousand acres intended for corn and soybeans are also still vacant. With the prime time for a summer forage seeding less than five weeks away, our spring weather issues offer a unique opportunity for forage growers to be prepared to make the perfect summer seeding when August arrives. In particular, soil samples can be pulled now in order that corrective lime and fertilizer applications may be made in a timely fashion. The extra time available to prepare for new seedings this year also allows growers to eliminate perennial weeds, and control the annuals which continue to germinate while abundant precipitation persists throughout the state. Mark Sulc, OSU Extension forage specialist, offers the following 11 highlights of key management steps toward successful establishment of perennial forages for later this summer. 1. Apply lime and fertilizer according to a soil test. Since the stand will be used for several years, ideally the soil test should have been taken within the past year. If soil pH is low, corrective applications will not take effect quickly enough for good establishment this year of pH sensitive species like alfalfa. 2. Control problem perennial weeds ahead of seeding. Be careful with herbicide selection because some have residual soil activity and will harm new forage seedings if proper waiting periods are not observed. Be sure to read the labels of any herbicides being considered. 3. Plant new perennial forage stands as soon as possible in August. Seedlings require at least six to eight weeks of growth after emergence to have adequate vigor for winter survival. In northern Ohio, plant during the first two weeks of August. In southern Ohio, plant by August 30. Assuming soil moisture is present, planting earlier in August is almost always better than later. Later planting than these recommended dates may work, but there is greater risk for failure and the stand may have lower yield potential next year. The new stand should have at least six to eight inches of growth before a killing frost. Slow establishing species should be planted as early as possible. Fast establishing species like red clover, alfalfa, and orchardgrass can be seeded up to the dates listed above if moisture is present. Kentucky bluegrass and timothy can actually be seeded 15 days later than the dates listed above. 4. It is risky to place seeds into dry soil – there may be just enough moisture to germinate the seed but not enough to get the seeding established. Either plant soon after a rain when soil moisture is adequate, or when a good rain system is in the forecast. 5. No-till seedings conserve moisture and can be very successful, provided weeds are controlled prior to seeding. Remove all straw from fields previously planted to small grains. Any remaining stubble should either be left standing, or clipped and removed. Do not leave clipped stubble in fields because it will form a dense mat that prevents good seed placement and emergence. 6. If you are going to use tillage, don’t over-till and be sure to prepare a firm seedbed. Loose seedbeds dry out very quickly. Deep tillage is not ideal for late summer seedings. A cultipacker or cultimulcher is an excellent last-pass tillage tool. The soil should be firm enough that the your footprint is no deeper than 3/8 inch. 7. Plant the seed shallow (1/4 to 1/2 inch deep) and in firm contact with the soil. Carefully check seeding depth, especially when using a no-till drill. A drill with press wheels provides the greatest success with summer seeding. Broadcasting seed on the surface without good soil coverage and without firm packing is usually a recipe for failure in the summer. 8. Use high quality seed of known forage-type varieties from reputable dealers. Cheap seed often results in lower yield and shorter stand life. Check out variety performance trials and those of neighboring states at the following websites: Ohio: http://oardc.osu.edu/forage2010/ Kentucky: http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Forage/ForageVarietyTrials2.htm Pennsylvania: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uc068.pdf Michigan: http://fis.msue.msu.edu/ 9. Make sure legume seed has fresh inoculum of the proper rhizobium to ensure nitrogen fixation. If the seed is pre-inoculated, check with the seed supplier to ensure the seed was stored under conditions that guarantee viable inoculant. 10. If planting alfalfa, don’t plant new alfalfa immediately after an older established alfalfa stand. Autotoxic compounds are released by old alfalfa plants, which inhibit growth and productivity of new alfalfa seedlings. You can seed in alfalfa in late summer to thicken up a new alfalfa seeding that was made this spring. The autotoxic compounds are not present in young alfalfa plants. They are released from older, established alfalfa plants. 11. As the stand develops this fall, do not be tempted to harvest it. No matter how much growth accumulates, it is usually best to let the cover protect the new crowns during the winter. The only exception to the no fall harvest rule for late summer seedings is perennial ryegrass. If perennial ryegrass has tillered and has more than six inches of growth in late fall, clip it back to three to four inches in November or early December. Finally, scout new seedings for winter annual weeds in October. Apply herbicides as needed. Winter annual weeds are much easier to control in late fall than they will be next spring. Seldom do we relish the thought that we have nearly five weeks to prepare to do a permanent or long term forage seeding. Frankly, most of us hope we don’t have this opportunity again . . . at least not for the reasons we currently are dealing with. Regardless, don’t miss this chance to make the perfect forage seeding which could last for years.


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