Glitz and Glamour in the White House provides sparkling insights into the fashion of Ohio’s seven Presidential First Ladies

  • by Jennifer Kneuss
  • February 12, 2013
  • 422
                        
Summary: The fascinating lives of Ohio’s seven ‘home grown’ First Ladies was the topic of a special Tuscarawas County Public Library presentation on Feb. 6. Guests were treated to displays of glittering jewelry and an exhibition featuring the fashions of First Ladies throughout the centuries. Ohio’s First Ladies have contributed significant flair and flavor to the White House. Of the eight U.S. presidents hailing from the Buckeye State, seven had Ohio born wives. One aficionado of the First Ladies is Dr. Mari Halkovich. The Medina County resident and retired school district superintendent has not only a love of history, but also of antique and vintage jewelry, and teaches on the topic at The University of Akron as well as through classes and talks throughout the state. As part of the Tuscarawas County Public Library’s ongoing speaker series, Halkovich presented Glitz and Glamour in the White House, a fascinating overview of the style of the jewelry and clothing of Ohio born First Ladies that typically reflected the trends of the nation. Lucretia Garfield, wife of 20th president James, was from Hiram, Ohio. Asked to support ‘dress reform’ and promote the wearing of bright colors and flowing fabrics, she refused. Delicate handkerchief pins were a hallmark of her fashion choices. Caroline Scott Harrison served with Benjamin Harrison from 1889 through 1893. From Oxford, OH, Caroline started the Daughters of the American Revolution, and also supported John Hopkins Medical School on the condition that “they admit women as medical students.” “The bustle was in style, so women could only perch on the very edge of their chairs,” explained Halkovich to her rapt audience. “Necklines became high, and fans became a fashion statement. In vogue were hefty pins worn above the waistline that were known as Stomacher Pins.” The Harrison family pledged to only wear clothing that was made in the United States. Ida Saxton McKinley of Canton, wife of 25th president William McKinley, was quite a fashion maven, but the press corps was diligent in pointing out the “no taxpayer money was put out for Mrs. McKinley’s clothing”. “It was said that Ida brought a $10,000 wardrobe with her to the White House,” noted the speaker as she pointed out a photo of the First Lady. “By then, the bustle styles were almost gone, although high necklines were still in style. Also popular was the wearing of the white egret bird’s feathers on headgear, until the Audubon Society saw that the egret was in danger of extinction and stepped in. They requested that Mrs. McKinley stop wearing them to set a precedent, but she refused. After her husband was assassinated, she wore black for two years, including wearing a mourning pin.” Mourning jewelry was often woven of the deceased loved one’s hair, and included hair clips, necklaces, pins, and pocket watch chains. 27th president William Taft’s wife Helen was from Cincinnati, Ohio, and she loved living in the White House, wearing low necklines and abandoning bustles. She had a whole wardrobe of tiaras. “Can you imagine today’s First Ladies wearing tiaras?” questioned Halkovich with a chuckle. Helen’s pushy nature caused the press to refer to her and William as ‘the co-presidents”. She and Jackie Kennedy are the only two First Ladies buried in Arlington Cemetery. From 1921 to 1923, First Lady Florence “Flossie” Harding served with her husband, Warren, the 29th president. From Marion, Ohio, Flossie’s husband won his seat in the first election when women could vote. She worked to target women in his campaign. Becoming First Lady at age 62, Flossie drew criticism for dressing in flapper-type gowns, with their dropped waists, uneven lengths, and plenty of bright colors, tassels, and flashy jewelry. Among the Ohio First Ladies, Halkovich credits Mrs. Taft as being the most flamboyant in her style of jewelry and dress. She shared that her fascination with vintage jewelry “began when I was a teenager and hasn’t stopped since.” The speaker encouraged attendees to explore more fascinating details about the clothing and jewelry of the women at the First Ladies Museum and Library in Canton (www.firstladies.org) “The seven Ohio First Ladies were all interesting women,” noted Halkovich. “But all of them are interesting in their own ways.”


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