The Sweetness of the Vine

  • by Jennifer Kneuss
  • May 13, 2013
  • 382
                        
Summary: Ohio’s Amish Country grapes being made into wine are sweeter than ever, thanks to the mixed blessings of the drought of 2012. ‘Viticulture: The cultivation or culture of grapes especially for wine making.’ That’s the definition provided by the dictionary, but it’s a very simple description of a very complicated process, one that takes years for wine makers to master. Duke Bichsel of Breitenbach Winery admits that growing grapes for the purpose to turn them into wine once wasn’t an accepted practice in Ohio’s Amish Country. “When I built this winery over 30 years ago, it was unheard of to build a winery where grape growing was not well known. Well, why not?” Bichsel chuckled, as he recalled all the naysayers who tried to discourage him. Today, the winery is joined by a handful of other successful wineries in and around Amish Country. Many grow at least part of the grapes they need to produce the wines that have made the area a wine enthusiast destination. Breitenbach’s has grown to an operation that makes ‘about 140,000 gallons of wine a year.’ To keep up with growth, Bichsel has between 10,000 and 15,000 vines, but he also purchases fresh grapes from other parts of Ohio, Michigan, and New York, as well as from as far away as Oregon and California. 2013, while being a rough year for many types of farming in northeast Ohio due to the drought, turned out to be a boon for grape growers. “The drought turned out to be a good thing for grape growers and wine makers because of several factors,” Bichsel noted. “At first, I was worried because we started out with a damp spring. But a good note was that we didn’t have a spring freeze, so I was happy about that, although other surrounding areas did get a freeze. Maybe we missed that because our grapes are at a higher elevation.” It turns out that drought like conditions resulted in a climate more like that of the famous wine country of Napa Valley. “The drought conditions, combined with a lot of sun, really brought up the sugar content in the grapes. Also, it caused the vines to reach out and stretch their roots down deep to seek water. We want that the roots to grow deep. Everything you get underneath will transpire to the canopy also.” The wine maker noted that other conditions favorable to the grapes in his vineyards include the higher levels of wind where the grapes are planted, resulting in keeping the vines aired out and less susceptible to mold and mildew problems, which can harm the crop. Specialized hedging equipment used by Breitenbach’s also stresses the roots in a positive way. “Last year the harvest was not as plentiful, but the grapes were of higher quality. Some of the grapes we harvested last year, we are able to use them in this year’s bottlings. I make a lot of varieties on the fruitier, sweeter side that are not barrel-aged so long.” The vineyard contains all red grapes except for Rieslings. “That’s kind of unusual for Ohio. Ohio has never been known for a red grape area, but the reds are my biggest sellers in the winery.” Bichsel also grows Valiant and Cynthiana hybrids, which emulate cabernet sauvignon grapes. “One of the reason I chose some of these other varieties is earlier harvest. The problem in the East is getting grapes to ripen before the frost. Much of our harvest was completed before others in the area. We are building the sugars. The fall freeze means vines stop producing sugars.” “The season zones have changed now – our zone has become more of a southern zone. We are now in the Ohio River Zone. Our climate is better for grape growing. Some of the varieties I planted normally would not be planted in this zone – I felt they would do well here, and went with my gut feeling. But they are doing great,” Bichsel explained. “Will we give Napa Valley a run for their money this year? I don’t know if I’d go so far as saying that, because we actually give Napa Valley a run every year. Ohio takes their share of golds, silvers, and best of class (in competitions). We’re proud of what we do here in Ohio, and it’s just going to get better and better.”


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