By Ron Becker
Agricultural and Natural Resources
OSU Extension-Wayne County
May 4, 2011
282
In case youve never noticed, when I write an article, I try to write for the benefit of both the farming and the non-farming community. Part of the reason for this is the rural urban interface, which can be a problem if theres not understanding on both parts. And oftentimes we can find out that the challenges and problems that growers encounter-rural or urban-have similarities.
A few weeks or so ago I wrote about soil temperatures. This time Im going to cover soil moisture, which is a problem all of us have right now, whether a farmer or a gardener. Once we get a sunny day after a long rainy spell, we are compelled to go out and get some work done before the next rain hits. And while getting things planted in a timely manner is important (though not necessarily the most important point) for the harvest of the current year, working the ground when its too wet can actually cause problems for years to come. When the ground is too wet, compaction can occur. This happens when the soil is compressed and air and water is pushed out of it so that it becomes more dense. Compaction causes problems by interfering with root growth as well as drainage and aeration of the soil.
One of the best ways to deal with compaction is not to cause it in the first place. To do this we need to avoid driving on, walking on, or working the soil when it is too wet. To determine if it is too wet, one of the easiest things to do is take a handful of soil and squeeze it into a ball. If upon release it retains its shape, the soil is too wet. If, on the other hand, the ball will crumble, then it is dry enough to work the soil. For a lawn, standing water or leaving muddy tracks with the mower is a definite sign it is too wet.
Dealing with compaction once it has taken place will depend on where it takes place. In gardens or flowerbeds, amendments, such as compost, manure or mulches can be worked into the soil to help improve the aeration and drainage, though it may still take several years for this improvement to show.
In a lawn, aerators can be used to penetrate the thatch layer and compaction area, allowing more air into the soil.
In a field setting, deep tillage (when it is dry enough), and the use of deep rooted crops with large taproots, such as legumes, sorghum-sudan grass hybrids, and tillage or forage radishes can help alleviate the effects of soil compaction by penetrating the compacted layer, creating pore space that allows air, water and crop roots to penetrate deeper in the soil profile. Incorporating manure or green manures can alleviate some of the soil compaction by adding organic matter to the soil. The freezing and thawing action taking place in the soil each spring can also help, but only in the upper few inches.
So the rule for this year, despite how late it seems for getting crops in the ground, is make sure the ground is dry enough to do field operations so that we dont have expensive reminders of this wet spring for years to come.
Ron Becker is an OSU Extension Agricultural and Natural Resources program coordinator and may be reached at Becker.4@osu.edu.
