A Mediterranean staple
- Scott Daniels: We Ate Well and Cheaply
- June 13, 2023
- 655
“It might have choked Artie, but it ain’t gonna choke Stymie.”
Any adult of a certain age will recognize this supremely quotable line from the old “Little Rascals” series of short films. Those episodes played on infinite repeat when we had fewer than a dozen channels, and we grew up on them as children, especially us latchkey kids.
Stymie was talking about the artichoke he was presented with, having no idea how to eat it, no matter how hungry he was. He set off determinedly trying to peel away the dozens of layers of leaves, smashing them down as he went, before finally throwing the whole business in the trash bin.
I suspect that, at a time when you were as likely to see an artichoke at the grocery store as a kangaroo, the mystery of this stubborn vegetable has hung with many of us. This and the fact that the price of artichokes seems to be all over the map can scare anyone off trying to cook them.
Starting with the raw, bare globes can indeed be intimidating, but there are numerous ways to utilize artichokes from many cuisines around the world. One of the most famous is a braised version in an earthy herb and breadcrumb sauce closely tied to the restaurants of Rome. There’s a lot of preparation involved, and this may not be the best first foray into tackling them. I’ll give you a simple, basic recipe that yields great results without too much fuss.
Artichokes are a Mediterranean staple, and this is where they originate. The plants do not take kindly to cold weather, so they’re not something you can plant next to the pea plants in Ohio. California produces a lot of them now, and they’re generally available at any well-stocked produce section.
They pose a few problems right out of the gate, however. Because they are a little dear, they’re often priced at a point to make you pause before settling for green beans instead, meaning they grow brown before being sold.
They should be bright green and firm. The best bet is to keep an eye out for a good deal, which would be about a dollar each, rather than the usually seen $3 or $4. Choose examples that are round, plump and firm when given a gentle squeeze. They should not feel the least bit slimy, and parts of the leaves should be a bit purple in color.
Once you get them home, they’ll need a bit of trimming, as much of any artichoke is inedible. You’re only munching on the soft bit that is found at the edge where the leaf is attached to the main stem. The rest of the leaves and the hairy center are discarded.
To me, they’re delicious simply pulled from the globe and dipped in melted butter. They’re actually quite delicious this way and taste like something luxurious and expensive. To eat them prepared in this way, simply pull off the leaves one at a time and pull the soft end through your front teeth, scraping off the yummy bits. Discard the rest of the leaves. Once you’ve reached the center, remove the hairy “choke” and enjoy the heart at the base.
BOILED ARTICHOKES
1 artichoke per person
3 lemons, halved
5 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
2 tablespoons kosher salt
Begin by trimming the artichokes. With a sharp knife, slice off the top third of the vegetable and cut off the stem close to the base and discard. Remove any whole leaves, with their spiny tips, that remain. Rub all of the cut surfaces with a cut lemon to prevent browning.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Squeeze the lemons into the water and drop the halves with the garlic cloves in. Cover and simmer for 30-40 minutes, until you can pierce the stem end easily at the tip of a paring knife. Drain them fully and serve with a generous pool of melted butter.