We have a lot more shared experiences than not
- Scott Daniels: We Ate Well and Cheaply
- July 27, 2023
- 436
Grilling outdoors in summertime is likely one of the great things about living in this country. Sure, I know people grill everywhere, but do they do Texas ribs or a big slab of brisket? OK, yes, they do.
We’ve imported some of the great grilled dishes of the world and made them our own, so I’m sure it goes the other way. Surely there’s a family in Finland who is lighting some fuel and cooking pork ribs outdoors, just like in Ohio, Idaho, Mississippi and Alaska.
It’s a universal experience, the kind that are to be mined in every American home movie made anywhere in the United States. I once worked for a company that offered to transfer reel-to-reel home movies from film to VHS, itself now obsolete as well.
What I learned from the people who made the actual transfers is everyone has the same life. They pose in front of the Christmas tree. They go to the beach. They goof around in the backyard. There are dogs and cats, new cars, and doddering great-grandparents. Dad flaunts his new Father’s Day tie and makes yummy faces at his beer can, and Mom shows off her deviled eggs.
All the videos were pretty much exactly the same. In our divisive time, it is well to keep such things in mind. We have a lot more shared experiences than not.
Within those similar stories, though, are vast variations. Just as Mom may put on a smile for the video camera, turning left and right to show off her summer sun dress, she has a lot on her mind: One of the kids is getting bad grades in social studies. Her new boss at work isn’t all she was cracked up to be. Ralph has been hitting the Strohs a little more than he should lately.
Every family has a story that both blends in and chugs along below the surface. And every family handles those grilling days differently.
Remember the fad for grilling a chicken set over a beer can? I think there are doodads designed to make that plan a little more dignified now, but having tried it back in the day, its origins fall into that category of cooking that demands we keep most men out of the kitchen. A chicken cooked with a beer can in its hindquarters is the invention of a guy who got off the couch during halftime with an amazing idea. I’m betting he shared his recipe with a neighbor, who called a realtor the next day. There are better ways to steam-smoke meats.
One of the easiest and most delicious ways to grill a chicken is to split it in half. Spatchcock is from Ireland and is a shortening of “spatch the cock” or split it. The chicken is split by removing the backbone, pressed out flat and roasted on the grill or in a hot oven. The result is chicken halves that are a little easier to cut up and serve than a whole bird, and it also cooks faster.
To do this, you’ll need a good, stiff, sharp knife or some sturdy poultry shears. First, remove the wishbone from the neck end for easier cutting up later. Turn the bird onto its front and cut down each side of the backbone, removing it entirely. Turn the bird over and press it down to flatten it a bit. From that point it’s ready for your marinade or rub. Grill it over direct heat, turning occasionally and watching for burning, until an internal temperature of 165 F at the breast and 175 F for the dark meat is reached. Try for a good sear and slather with barbecue sauce at the end, if you like.